Alternator upgrade
I decided to upgrade the standard Delco 19SI alternator with a high output alternator and external regulator. The advantages of the new system are higher charging rate, 165 amps instead of 105 amps; higher voltage of 14.4 vs. 13.8 to 14.0 volts; and a charging program controlled by the Balmar MC-612 regulator.
A couple of the items that had to be considered were the length and size of the charging wires, both positive and negative; the limits of the battery isolator; and placement of the regulator. Also the design of the system had to minimize any possibility of Electro Magnetic Interference in particular with the ZF Cruise Command system.
Selection of the 95 Series was made in concert with help from Balmar Corp. Balmar recommended the 95 series because of the larger size bearings and the heavy duty mount. Their experience with Cummins engines and stresses put on the alternator led to this recommendation.
Description |
Part No. |
Source |
Balmar Alternator w K8 pulley attached |
95-165-IG |
Balmar Corporation |
Regulator |
MC-612 |
Balmar Corporation |
Alternator temperature sensor |
MC-TS-A |
Balmar Corporation |
Battery temperature sensor |
MC-TC-B |
Balmar Corporation |
Alternator support |
3969163 |
Cummins |
Alternator brace |
3971982 |
Cummins |
Screw, hex flange head cap |
3903105 |
Cummins |
Nut, hex flange |
3903210 |
Cummins |
Set screw |
M10 x 1.5 x ¾” |
General hardware store |
Sheathing, various |
|
McMaster / Internet |
2/0 gauge wire —red |
2/0 x 14 feet |
Cobra Wire and Cable |
2/0 gauge wire —black |
2/0 x 10 feet |
Cobra Wire and Cable |
2/0 crimp ends |
5/16 lugs x 4 |
Cobra Wire and Cable |
Red 2/0 boots |
192528 x 2 |
West Marine |
White engine enamel |
|
Cummins or Auto Supply |
Wiring
I followed Jim Waskowich’s High Output Alternator Instructions with only one exception. Instead of connecting the Ignition Lead of the MC-612 to the Fireboy Terminal, I connected it to the key switch.
Also, the MC-612 regulator needed a switched power source. I ran a wire from the MC-612 to this connection.
The only other difference was that I was trying to guard against any possible Electro Magnetic Interference—EMI. So the changes made were to run the positive output and the alternator ground wire in a SS sheath, grounded at both ends. Also, the MC-612 wiring harness as supplied by Balmar has a black wire that is loose in the harness. I added about 18 inches to this wire and then wrapped that wire around the harness, one wrap every 3 inches, again trying to minimize any possible source of EMI.
Resources
Wiresizer 3.1 (Program for determining wire sizes)
Many thanks to the following people for their help with this project:
Jim Waskowich on Grand Adventure
Bob Geary on North Star
Barry Shapiro & Suzanne Claus
Spray - NT 37-139
BShap72181@aol.com
Ideas list
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New vs. old mounting arm. There is about an inch difference in the arms. You will need the new arm.
Original alternator mount: there are actually three threaded holes under the bracket. Only two are used. The center hole is covered.
This is what it looks like with the bracket removed. You need a metric socket and a long handle to remove the existing bolts.
 The new bracket installed. It leaves the forward mounting hole open. You need to fill this hole. I used a metric set screw, M10 x 1.5 with RTV Sealant.
New alternator and bracket installed. Pulley and belt lined up. All wiring connections must be done before the alternator is tilted into position. It is a tight fit.
Front view of new alternator. No changes to the belt or tensioner were needed. Original safety cover fits over the new alternator.
Wiring sheath near shunt. Negative connection made at the shunt, both the 12 volt negative and one side of the sheath were connected here.
Wiring sheath at the rear of the alternator. You can barely see the red wire coming out of the sheath. The negative cable plus the other side of the sheath ground is connected to the back of the alternator.
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